TOM BOLGER

Fabela Pa la enmienda 9a

2012-01-23T09:10:00.000-08:00

So with loads of motivation for 2012, I managed to make an ascent of my fifth 9a, fabela pa la enmienda.

This one is special to me as it climbs all the way out of the cave at Santa Linya. I remember first visiting the cave on a trip when I was 17 and swinging around on the 8a´s there thinking how impossible and intimidating the place was. Ít´s cool to look back and be able to see the improvement, something that is often very hard to see and something that as climbers we are always looking for.

Check out the interview about the route at UKclimbing:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66228

Thanks need to go out to Lynne for the epic belays and to EDELRID, whose support is much appreciated.

Winter Wonderland

2012-01-17T10:27:00.000-08:00

Eli on Pegue Nocturno 8a

Porky!!!

Niels cruising Spanglish at the futbolin-Santa Linya

Gerard hanging out at the rest on fabelita 8c.

Well Catalonia is the place to be in winter. Cold, crisp, blue sky days are what it's all about. Xmas and new year have come and gone but the winter season out here is still in full swing. The psyche is high and all that christmas grub seems to have finally been burnt off!
Now I'm psyched to climb all the way out of the Santa Linya cave, yesterday I fell off the top of Fabela pa la enmienda 9a, an awesome 50m route out the middle of the cave, getting some air miles on the clock as the bolts are super spaced, as you only clip 5 bolts in the second half of the route:)

This year I am psyched to do more exploring, get out and try some hard routes in new places, bolt more and climb more onsight! Maybe even a multipitch or two!

Gypsy Blood

2011-11-28T09:26:00.000-08:00

Gypsy Blood,
is the new route I have just finished bolting and cleaning today in Santa Linya!
Wow, the work that goes into bolting these routes is beasting, thank god I´ve finished it, so now I can spend rest days actually resting instead of fighting with a 50 degree, 30 metre overhanging wall.
Obviously the name is about Lynne and myself, lifestyle choices and a bit of family history in there too!
Although, It should be known that I haven´t had to turn to collecting scrap metal to fund my climbing passion, YET!

I haven´t tried the moves on the sharp end but obviously felt the holds and stuff whilst hanging on the static rope, it´s so hard to say how hard it will be and i´m really psyched to jump on it and check out how hard it actually is. The cool thing about the route is that there is virtually no resting point so will be super resistant, continuous climbing. Just how I like it.

Well we´ll see, ill get a photo tommorrow.

Psyched ;)

Turning point

2011-11-15T12:29:00.000-08:00

Well, I´ve been trying my project, as usual. This project seems different to the others I´ve had before, after coming agonisingly close to doing it in the spring ( falling at the top 6 times) I thought that with cooler temps and a focused run at it I would be able to polish it off quickly. However, so far I haven´t managed it. Even though strangely all the sections feel better than ever the damn thing still holds out against me.

The main crux of the route is a slap to a mono, this move is just so fricking hard to get right! I t´s not just about strength it´s about timing, about commiting everything and not giving in to the natural "oh my god I´m slapping to a mono and my finger´s going to rip off" fears.

The annoying thing is I´ve been through this move before and also I´ve done from one move before the mono to the chains three times! Redpointing- it´s mental!

It is SUCH a learning process and is definately the hardest thing I have ever tried. After getting close but not doing it I now realise that I need to up my game to get this route done. With this route in mind and Tudor bompa´s periodisation manual in my hand I have reached what I think is a turning point in my climbing. Climbing over the last 2 and a half years has been going to the crag and me throwing myself at the hardest routes I could get on, well i´ve enjoyed it and I´ve learnt lots on the way, but I think it´s time for a bout of training aswell.

Yesterday I started: boulder warm up, 2 x 8a laps, then 2 go´s on my project , then up fabela 8c+ then back to the casa where I did sets of ten and 20 pull ups on a small edge on the fingerboard ( 100 in total) then went to work, finished at ten got home ad then did a fingerboard session.

Still psyched today even though I can´t lift my arms above my head;)

Oh yeh and today as it was pissing it down I have been bolting a new line in Santa linya cave! It´s incredible the amount of work that goes into bolting these routes and I have a new found respect for all the guys out here who bolt routes (out of their own pocket). So far it seems really hard, you never know though until you start trying the moves, but I woudn´t be suprised if the cave had another 9th grade route notched on its scoreboard.

No pics at the mo because my camera battery charger is capput! :(

The Monkey King- Indian Ondra

2011-10-11T09:50:00.000-07:00

I first saw this video some time ago, it was shown to me by good friend Alan Cassidy , not quite sure how he found it but what an amazing find!

WARNING

This video contains moves that even Ondra can´t pull off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPN3gLVDsOY

Someone give the guy some climbing shoes, just imagine what he could do!!haha

Desplomat- 2011 Les Avellanes

2011-09-26T10:58:00.000-07:00

Pablito, busting out a backflip.

Dyno!!!!

Xavi, swimming in climbing shoes.

Sunday was spent chilling out in the sunshine flying off the wall into the pool!

What more could you want?

The final of the boulder comp on Saturday night was really good fun, amazing problems, with a late finish even by Spanish standards we finished at 3:30 am! The party went on to the 9 the next morning.

Diego Marsella having a think about the moves on one of the problems in the final.

Alex taking down one of the final problems.

Chris mantelling out the volume on prob 5.

Me catching the swinging balls, awesome problem.

Great atmosphere for the final.

The one and only Andoni Perez, comentator extrordinaire.

Mid comp refreshments.

Lynne crushing the blocs.

Desplomat at the weekend was a great success. Loads of people turned up for the boulder comp, which had a really great and friendly atmosphere. The problems were super interesting and well set, it definately felt a bit unusual for me and was great training (battering) doing dynos and loads of funky moves that you don´t normally do when your tied onto the end of a rope.

The Desplomat event was all about raising awareness about the climbing areas around Santa Linya to show how important it is to local climbers and from the rest of the world. As you may know the climbing situation in Santa Linya has been a bit difficult in the recent past. I think that this event will have helped hugely in showing the local government and other people just how important the climbing in this area really is and help to keep areas like Santa Linya open.

Congratualtions to all the guys from Les Avellanes for putting together such a great event and also a big thankyou to Victor Fernandez, the ringleader of the whole thing.

Last but by no means least I´d like to say a massive thankyou to my new Sponsor : freshstartliving.com

They are a super innovative company that truly appreciate the dedication and sacrifices that have to be made by top level climbers.
With their support I feel a new confidence and motivation that I can achieve my climbing ambitions.

Proj mode

2011-09-20T08:52:00.000-07:00

Me, being a pikey!!! Foam mats for the board I want to build.....

Sweating at the casa

The new chicken coop, first free range egg was layed yesterday!

Vicious guard dog attacking the obviously dangerous orange squeeky ball.

Back at the casa, got all the School/work shite organised and now to think and engage myself into Project mode, Catxasa is awaiting my attention.......

Desplomat bouldering event is also going to be really cool, they have errected an awesome wall over the swimming pool in Santa linya and there are loads of steep funky looking bouldering walls too. Cant wait it´s going to be a really great event.

The last couple of days out here have actually been a bit cooler and it has sent my psyche levels soaring.

Jumping back into project mode on Catxasa 9a+, I had to remind myself of a few subtle foot and hand movements but all in all it went well. That was until my foot popped which saw me helicopter spinning sideways, my leg getting caught by the rope and me flipping upside down. All very dramatic indeed but actually nothing happened, I had a brief moment of turding myself and letting out a scream like a 6 year old girl only too have the softest of soft falls and lower to the ground feeling a bit stupid. Oh well atleast there was only Lynne there laughing at me and not a packed crag!

Oh what fun are the mind games of redpointing!

Bielsa, oil leaks and back to work.

2011-08-26T05:52:00.000-07:00

Bielsa,

Lynne and I had heard loads about this place over the last couple of years but never made the effort to go and check it out, the problem being that you have to pass Rodellar to get there.

Crag on the way to Bielsa,

Well, last week we went and found out that it is definately worth the effort, Imaculate rock covered in snaking tufas, Its basically like terradets mark 2. Well on the first day at the crag I had an amazing day, warming up on a 7a and then doing Joes Bar Team (possibly the best 7c in spain) I managed to onsight Highway 52 8b. This route is incredible, amazing quality and has a bit of everything just the way I like it.

The second day saw us back up for more, instead of climbing onsight I decided to have a go on an unclimbed project at the crag that the locals reckon will be 9a, the route is really amazing. Its impressive to watch french climber Manu Lopez throwing redpoints on the route in proper amuerte style. Definately looks like there is room for new routes. So with this new project potential in mind we headed back down to the nearest city to get some supplies to stay there for a week, when unfortunately we realised that the van had started leaking oil!!!

With only a week left before starting work and temperatures hitting 37 degrees we were reluctantly forced to return to the casa, to take the van to the garage and get stuff sorted out.

Well anyway I have another crag that I am super psyched to return to. Maybe next weekend if the van is alright!

BACK to work.........

So we are back and its a baking 32 degrees, I know I sound totally spoilt. How can you complain about sunny blue sky weather? Well I never thought I´d say it but you can. We actually went and climbed on plastic today, its the first time in a loooooonnnnng time and i´m battered.

With the temps set too stay like this I think I´m going to have to be a weekend warrior escaping to cooler spots and doing a bit of training during the week.

DESPLOMAT event is this weekend, should be a good laugh, deep water soloing over the swimming pool, boulder comp and big Fiesta!!!!

3 8cs in 6 days

2011-08-07T03:09:00.000-07:00

Dani lopez aka biceps guy on Karma 8b at Lezaia.

Lynne swinging around on the awesome 7b at Lezaia.

Wei trying hard on Beldurra 8b.

Wei at the base of Lezaia, another mega locals crag.

Me on the tufatastic Gaua 8c.

Harrrry!! New haircut!!

Dani Lopez, crushing agur 8b at oñate.

Me on the mega tufa classic Honky Tonky 8c.

Great cross through moves on the mid section of Honky Tonky 8c.

The sun tickling the base of the wall and my feet.

Dani (de vitoria) sending txipolini 8b Apellaniz.

Ellie keeping herself amused with a little snack.

Me on Justolini 8c. First ascent (link up).

Another shot of me on Justolini, a cool short and steep buttress.

So, it´s been a pretty busy week, retreating from the crags in Asturias as I couldn´t get harry to the best crags as he couldn´t climb the via ferrata approaches. Oh well, back to the Basque country and Navarra where there is a real abundance of small locals crags that are really great and Harry friendly.

First on the list was Apellaniz, where we met up with Dani Lopez, a really strong climber from Leon, the guy is like a walking encyclopedia of spanish climbing with a book thick collection of hand drawn topos. Here I did a link up of Txipolini 8b into Justuri 8c (3rd go) , I tried the link up because the 8c is no longer possible due to a broken hold that has left a blank section of wall. Its great climbing combining steep power pulling to a crimpy headwall, Dani tried it with me too he thinks it´s 8c.

After a rest day retrieving the rope from a tree in Apellaniz we went on to Oñate, the original training ground of many Basque beasts including Patxi Usobiaga and Josune Bereziartu. There is an awesome photo of Josune in the old Basque guide crushing Honky Mix 8c+, the most ripped women that ever existed and the first to climb 9a!!!!

This crag has awesome tufa lines, what I found out is that this crag is a true locals crag with sand bags a gogo for warming up. Its meant to be a summer crag but the locals climb here in spring and autumn, the jungle conditions left me wimpering at the state of my hands!!! Really psyched to get Honky Tonky done, uber classic!! The following day we went back but the rain and humidity stopped play, so semi rest day.

On the road again we followed Dani to Lezaia a crag set in Navarra, it´s a super steep cave style crag where power endurance is the key. First day at the crag I jumped on a great 7b to get going and then got stuck into the 8c Gaua, It features kneebar intensive tufa squeezing to a powerful headwall. After two tries working out the trickery I did it 3rd go, some would call that first redpoint however I think thats absolute turd, a go is a go! Awesome route definately psyched to try more at this crag.

Today we are off to explore another local Navarra crag with routes upto 8c+, thanks to Wei for the info. However looking at the weather the temps are set to sore, might just have to whip out the speedos and get to the Playa!

All the photos by Lynne except the one of her of course.

Santa Linya Desploma't Climbing Event

2011-07-26T04:30:00.000-07:00

DESPLOMA´T 2011 ,LES AVELLANES Y SANTA LINYA LA GRAN FIESTA DE LA ESCALADA.
ATENCION LO QUE SE AVECINA EN SEBTIEMBREACTIVIDADES PROGRAMADAS-COMPETICION DE BLOQUE-COMPETICION DE PISCIBLOC-DEMO EVOLV TEST (prueba por la Face los gatos Evolv)-FIESTA NOCTURNA CON DJ. Y ESPECTACULO DE FUEGO-ACTIVIDADES PARA LOS MAS PEQUES. ROCODROMO INFANTILPUENTE TIBETANO-INFLABLE ESCALABLE-PROYECCION DE PELICULAS-CONCURSO FOTOGRAFICO-EXHIBICION DE SLICKLINE-INSTALACIÓN DE INSTALACIONES PARA APRENDER SLICKLINE-ASISTENCIA DE ALGUNA DE LAS FIGURAS MAS PUNTERAS DEL MOMENTO....-CONFERENCIA SOBRE LA SOSTENIBILIDAD EN LA CUEVA GRAN DE STA. LINYA Y PROYECCION TURISTICA DE LA NOGUERA-Zona Shopping con Stands Comerciales-Y MUCHAS MAS SORPRESAS.........SORTEOS.......http://desplomat.blogspot.com/

Valdegobia, Spanish Malham.

2011-07-23T03:43:00.000-07:00

The 7a+ at apellaniz that was a misprint in the guide actually 7c, thank the lord!

At first I thought these stone carvings were just for feeding the cows, only later did I find out that they were actually tombs!!!! Didn't get back in one after that.

These tombs are everywhere at valdegobia at the bases of many routes, there is even one carved into the crag about 10 feet off the ground!

First and only day at baltzola= rain, forced rest day.

About 300,000 euros worth of vans in the car park! I thought climbers were poor?!

Spanish Malham, Valdegobia.

Back from a quick trip to Germany, where I was at the enormous tradeshow with EDELRID. It was a really good experience, great to see the innovative new kit that those guys are producing and really appreciative of their support.

So we,ve had 2 days climbing at Valdegobia, this is a crag which is to my knowledge not well known in the uk or outside of Spain for that matter. However, I think that the brits out there would love this crag, suprisingly cool temps, crimps, pockets and tiny little footholds. It's set within a green meadow. Not suprisingly it is super popular for Spanish climbing families. So much so that the locals have nicknamed the main sector as "the playground". Some of the sectors are featured in the basque climbing guide but not all, there are loads of sectors with one more hidden quiet sector that is covered in amazing tufas!

The only downside to the area is that at the weekend it is realllllly busy, kids and dogs and cows out number the climbers ten to one. For me personally I don't like climbing when it is so busy, the atmosphere there wasn't the usual chilled, friendly spanish way that I have come to know and love. Oh well, all that said I did do some really cool routes,made some silly mistakes( not taking enough draws) and having to jump off the onsight of the 8b+ not knowing whether to laugh or cry, pleased to do the 8c yesterday, it's the quickest I've ever done one.

Today back to Apellaniz, and proj time for Lynne, venga amuerte!!!!!

Travelling amuerte with Mavis!

2011-07-07T03:32:00.000-07:00

What a crazy week or so, returning to Scotland, buying a campervan (Mavis), catching up with family and friends, travelling south again on the karaoke ferry extrordinaire to Santander, to very, very slowly cross the Cantabrian mountains (bad map use) back to the inferno of Lleida, swimming, drinking, organising the Spanish dole and now Basque Climbing WOOHOO!!!!!!!

The first crag we have come to is Apellaniz, a small seemingly locals crag which is beautifully set in a lush Basque forest. Climbing here is a little surreal as you climb to an orchestra of cow bells worn by the huge cream cows that mow the grass at the base of the crag, making it seem as though it has its own private gardener.

Arriving to the crag without any guide or anything, we were warmly welcomed by the locals who gave us a guided tour of the crag. There are about 60 routes spread over three main buttresses. In general the climbing is short, bouldery and explosive on pockets and edges. The middle buttress is longer and has a more British limestone feel, white and blue with delicate climbing on slopers and undercuts.

Im so psyched to get back climbing, its been a while.

First day at the crag I did a classic 8a os, La Txunga del Txi and another 8a La Txunga del Gotzon 2nd go. Yesterday we returned to Apellaniz, warmed up on a couple of brutal 4 bolt 6's and Lynne did a 6b+ with a full on move off a mono!! I then go so spanked on a 7a+ that I had to check the guide to see if I was on the right route, as I knew that there was an 8b next to it. Unfortunately, I was on the right route!! With Lynne chuckling I wondered if it would go next red point, joder! Luckily, I shook my way up it feeling scared on the first pad mono undercut and smeary feet. Now I know why the Basques are so strong. Anyway, a couple of biscuits later I finished off the day by onsighting a really great 8a on the Garrapatta wall. Grades, what an odd concept sometimes.

We are resting today and tomorrow we are going to check out Valdegobia.

3 days to go!!!

2011-06-20T06:13:00.000-07:00

Well, its HOT!!!!!!! So, we have been doing a bit of climbing at La Pizarra and sector Regina in the Terradets valley, which are the most shaded spots around, the only problem is that it has still been 28 degrees in the shade. Sweat and greasiness are at maximum levels, its a bit of a shame because these two sectors are truely amazing. I will definately be spending more time at these crags when we return from our summer ADVENTURE!!

With it being so hot this weekend we couldnt be bothered sweating our way up routes so we decided to go and do the via ferrata in Oliana which I must say is pretty spectacular, looking down on eagles swooping across the crags is really quite stunning.

On Sunday we went to Cavallers, a high mountain crag that is filled with granite. Cavallers is about 2 hours from our place in Santa Linya and as you arrive there you can feel the difference in the air, when you stick your hand out the window of the car you dont get the hair drier effec you do near ours. the scenery is reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria and grazing cows wander around the boulders in the lush valley meadow. Well, we didnt go for the sport or the trad routes, we went bouldering. At the base of the valley there is a beautiful stream that is surrounded by boulders and bordered by a thick pine forest. The boulders range from easy gentle slabs to impossible looking overhangs. This is somewhere we will definately be revisiting. The only problem with Cavallers is that there is no real topo, the good thing about it is that if you are psyched and you want to be the first to do new problems, there are thousands of new potential problems, just dont forget your brush to get the moss off the virgin boulders!!!!!

Well with 3 more days and then we are off on our summer trip, so psyched now, its just so difficult to decide where to go first!!!

And thanks again to FIVE TEN and EDELRID for there continued support.

Better late than never

2011-06-08T12:16:00.000-07:00

Ive finally figured out to post a link!!! Thanks again to Joe and Colette for the video of Ciudad del Dios in the Santa Linya cave.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a

Only 2 weeks to go here before heading off for the summer, 2 months for climbing, climbing and trying to stop Harry scaring people.

Summers Coming

2011-05-23T12:23:00.000-07:00

First of all I would like to say thank you to EDELRID who have taken me on as part of the team. I've had all my new kit sent out and its amazing.

Its got pretty hot here in the last couple of weeks and we have had to venture to some crags that are in the shade but close enough to be able to get to work on time. We went to Sector Regina at Terradets, world class tuffa climbing thats well worth the walk-in. We have also had a couple of days at the lesser travelled sector at Terradets called La Pizarra, where we have been doing a bit of cleaning and climbing. Although the crag is roadside the routes are amazing but very 'old skool' ie HARD!!!

Joe Kinder and Colette were staying with us for a few weeks which was really motivating, we did a load of climbing and lots of drinking, Joey also filmed me on Ciudad del Dios which was really fun.

We are now on the countdown to the school finishing.......only 4 weeks to holidays!

Casa Santa Linya, life in Spain.

2011-05-03T09:10:00.000-07:00

Well, so far this year Lynne and I have had loads of friends staying at the house which has been awesome,too many names to mention them all.

I think it's always great for the motivation to have psyched people around you I feel it really helps to get you psyched to try hard.

Here are a few photos of recent activities here in Catalunya.

Alex (the hulk) Barrows walking to the gorge at Mont rebei, with myself and Ross Kirkland.

Elly (the dutchess) chilling on the sofa.

The team having a late night workout on La Rambla.

Ummmmm??Which way to the car?

Well, anyway I've been trying Catxasa loads and have fallen at the top 4 times now. Hopefully the weather will cool a little bit, I will rapidly grow some new skin and be feeling good for tomorrows redpoint.

Siurana Real Rock fun in the sun!!!!!!

2011-04-12T09:24:00.000-07:00

Well, Sunday saw Lynne and I team up with Neil McGeachy (geek) and take team Scotland for a day out in the mega sport climbing venue of Siurana. A big shout has to go out to Team Scotland, who were all awesome. I must say that I'm really impressed with the kids that are coming through from Scotland, they've got great determination and truck loads of energy to boot!!

The sun was out and it was really hot but that didn't stop anyone all of the kids crushing atleast 7 routes in the day!!

I think what Geek is doing with the MCofS is really great for furthering Scottish climbing, they are getting kids out onto the rock were they are gaining invaluable climbing experience from a really young age. Which, when you look to Mr Ondra, is definately needed by todays elite!

Montsant Magic

2011-01-24T02:11:00.000-08:00

Yesterday ,with my project under my belt, I decided to go and do some onsighting-destination Montsant. I had only ever been to Montsant once before, 3 years ago, but had seen the stunning line of L mens 8b+. I remember standing at the bottom of it too intimidated to get on it.

Well 3 years on and there I was tying in, getting psyched up for the onsight go.

This time I had decided that I was going to approach it differently, in the past I have approached routes onsight too psyched up, jittery, full of nerves and have blown them on some subtle foot move or pumped out over gripping.

The route went really well, I had to battle and there was definately a couple of moves were it felt really close, but I managed to stay relaxed and keep my head together right until the chains, keep those thoughts of "I'm going to do it" at bay.

Soo pleased to do this route am really psyched to get back into onsighting.

All aboard the sending train!!

2011-01-20T04:40:00.000-08:00

So, after warming up at the football pitch waiting for the horrible fog to leave the cave . We arrived with an hour to spare before having to get off to work. On arrival Alex Barrows started what was to be a crazy day of sending with a fine ascent of Rollito sharma 8b+ ( his first of the grade)!! Two Japanese guys managed to simultaneously crank out a red point of there 7b project on the last day of there trip receiving an awesome applaud from the busy crag. The atmosphere was great. Up next was me, I managed to do Ciudad del dios 9a/+!!! Next, Danilo busted out Rollito Extension and just as I was running around stuffing my things into my bag trying to leave for work Rob Lamey fought his way up Ruta del sol 8b. Possibly the best 20 minutes of sending ever?

Ciudad del dios is the first route that has made me question whether I could really do it or not. I knew I could do all the moves and I could do it in two sections , putting it all together however just seemed both mentally and physically too much.

The first section of the route is a five bolt 8c+ which is really bouldery, with two main deadpoint moves. The second part is longer and requires you to switch over quickly into endurance mode. I found this transfer from really bouldery to resistance climbing mentally very taxing. I knew that to do the route I had to remain calm, something that seems so easy to do until you are actually there.

Well, climbing is so hard to determine what you did differently, what let you snake your way up when every other time you got spanked and shut down. Is it physical? Some of it must be. Is it mental? Definately, when I was actually climbing the route I felt more relaxed than ever before, I felt confident and without any nerves of falling or about doing the route. The demons that so frequently dash all redpoint hopes just weren't there. Maybe for me a once in a year moment of mental focus like this is how Ondra or Sharma rock up to the crag every other climbing day ?

The cave

2010-12-21T09:57:00.000-08:00

Well here we are living in Santa Linya!! Walking from our house to the crag, the cave!

Climbing in Santa linya is probably one of the most surreal places, when your in the village you feel like you are on the edge of the world this is a place where donkeys and packs of wild dogs rule the rutted and mostly dirt streets and where the average age is at a youthly 72.

On arrival at the cave, however, you will probably be greeted by an array of very expensive vans, large groups of people speaking in more languages than you thought existed and nearly all of them queueing up to get on some 9b or another.

Every winter the cave fills up and we spectate watching the climbing elite come from all corners of the world to test themselves on the amazing hard routes that are to be had. Just over the last few weeks there has been an impressive show from team Japan each of the four members climbing 8c+. I think that you can learn so much just from watching the different climbing styles and different approaches to routes. The Japanese guys try to onsight everything even if it is at there redpoint limit. This positive mentality and approach is maybe something we could all bring to our climbing. When was the last time you thought oh yeh this route is as hard as the hardest route I've ever done , I'll just get on it and onsight it?

Well anyway as for me, I have been trying a route called Ciudad del dios 9a/+, having fallen near the top and struggling with flappers and heel slips and numb hands and any other excuse I could think of for falling rather than I just fell, I decided to have a shot on blomu 8c+.

Blomu is an awesome route it breaks dow into three parts 7c, 8b, 8c+ the first is quite short and burly the second is crimpy with two dynamic throws and the third part consists of delicate heel hooks, tenuous body tension foot swaps and a pretty spicy run out, the whole thing is a truly brilliant route. Very psyched to do it but it just isn't my project, which, I am more motivated than ever to get back on, hopefully I can squeeze a couple more cositas out of the tank to top off what has been my best year of climbing to date.

8a Que Barry!!!

2010-05-24T05:29:00.000-07:00

The last couple of weeks have been pretty eventful, with the prime event being Lynne crushing her first 8a Thai dream!! Awesome effort!!!

The scot youngster Ross Kirkland also managed to do his first 8a in fine style, managing a flash ascent and a shout goes out to Ally Swinton who also grabbed his first 8a!!

I aso squeezed out the classic Fabela 8c+ down at the cave.

Well with rising temps ( slightly unbearable) we firstly went over to Rodellar, where the team bagged some good ticks, Alan crushed gemenis 8b+ second go and Neil despatched Gladiator 8a+, Ross onsighted Ironman 7b+ and I managed to get a quick ascent of Welcome to tijuana 8c just before the clouds opened and drenched the valley rendering the crags unclimbable.

So off to Margalef.....
Now Margalef is somewhere I have climbed before but hadn't really appreciated how amazing this climbing area really is, the new route possibilities are absoloutely endless, the scenery is superb and the variety of styles of climbing is mind blowing!!
Yesterday i managed to get Aitzol 8c in 3 redpoints, well psyched. I am very keen to try more routes down here and see what they have to offer.

Open your mind direct R1 9a

2010-04-06T03:33:00.000-07:00

Well arriving at the crag on what was meant to be a rest day due to sore skin, back etc Alan and I sat around heckling and soaking up the sun; well as I said I wasn't going to climb but with the motivational energy flowing from what is "team scotland" and the young Jonny Stocking crushing Rollito Sharma 8b+, I was psyched up for my own proyecto!

After a couple of familiar boulder problems at the base of the crag to warm up, and waiting for the good conditions to arrive I found myself clipping the chains. Looking up at the extension shaking out I wanted to continue but looking at the soaking tufa holds I knew that it would have to wait for another day.Lowering off pumped but not completely destroyed I am even more determined than ever to push myself on to the next level. When it drys out i'll be going for the 9a+ chains.

Clipcicles, Open your mind and Margalef

2010-03-28T12:45:00.000-07:00

Here are a few pics depicting the last months episode, mal tiempo y buen tiempo.

So it started with clipicicles and snow AGAIN, climbing down at the cave in down jackets, hats and thermals. Doesn't sound like what you would expect from Spain in march, does it??!!!

Well anyway, I had a great start to the month, managed to do the super classic open your mind 8c+ and then the following day El ball de triceps 8b at margalef which was my first 8b flash, thanks to Alan for the well needed beta.

Lynne had a pretty good couple of weeks making short work of airline 7b+ and la gorra 7b+ at margalef.

Alan crushed Rollito extension 8c (his third now) before a brief return to the motherland!!

Anyway we are all now on to the next set of projects, but are all waiting for some sun to dry the slimey tufas a bit!

THE NEXT LEVEL

Alan is attacking open your mind 8c+ and making fast progress with this power endurance test piece. Lynne is getting closer to the trio ternura 8a, but the crappy conditions of the last month have left crucial holds disgustingly wet .And i'm trying to push myself on to the next level , Open your mind direct , its amazing how easily your lifetime goals change!

What a Crazy day!!!!!!

2010-02-26T12:54:00.000-08:00

Well, I still can't quite believe it, today i did my second 9a, Fuck the System.

Tired from wednesday we arrived at the crag late today as we had to do an english course, so i warmed up slowly on airline and then bouldered around, i hadn't been on fuck the system for more or less two months due to all the rain and seeping tufas, anyway i pulled on and climbed through the crux of digital smoothly, arriving at the rest before the crux sequences i felt calm and focused pulling through the moves i made one or two mistakes hesitating on the top headwall and completely forgetting to replace the crucial toe hook, pumping out i plumetted back down with memeories of previous failed attempts. I bounced back up the rope and worked the moves to remember the top sequence,.
Sitting around at the bottom after, again I thought it was time to call it a day, the sun was fading it was getting cold but i dont know i just psyched myself up once again thinking if you want to get something done you've got to try fucking hard!! At the last move i felt nervous as it it is a large dynamic move and i had already fallen here two months ago. I slapped a numbing hand on my hand and went AMUERTE hitting the final hold perfectly ,letting out a roar as i clipped the chain it seemed like the dream ending to an already perfect week!!!!!!!

Thanks to lynne again for many days in the cold belaying and thanks to Pete for coming out in the cold to get the photos.

Its purrrrrfect!!!!!

2010-02-24T08:02:00.000-08:00

Direct Fabelita 9a , my very own link up at the cave!!!!!!!

Soo psyched, after falling on the last move the other weekend and then a week of crappy weather i thought it was going to be another 9a which i have fallen off the last move and not done!!!
Well, it didn´t start all that amazing today, we went down to the crag not expecting much after a storm yesterday and torrential downpour , to find the crag more or less dry. The sun was out and a strong wind was whipping round the cave making it feel crisp and cool. After 3 miserable attempts falling at the same spot, a really bouldery sequence, in the lower part and time to go to work approaching, i was ready to call it a day. However a japanese friend of mine whose name i cannot begin to spell gave an amazing display managing to do his first 8c+, today is his last day in spain after a long trip and he was super psyched, this Psyched me up to give it that one last "TRAINING GO" and that was it, somehow even though i felt tired before i started it was just one of those attempts when everything feels right !!!!

Now I need to get back to some unfinished bussiness ie Fuck the System ( when its dry that is).

Thanks to Lynne for going to the cave All the time!! Thanks to Alan too for the superb victory belay!!!!

2010-02-16T06:25:00.000-08:00

Ok , well somehow fuck the system is still wet. Annoying. Anyway i started trying another 9a proj a week or so ago and am well psyched for it, the route itself is a link up of the direct start to open your mind with fabelita.
The start section weighing in at 8c+ in its own right and six bolts long, it seemed like a project in its own right so this is were i initially focused. The first part is a combination of powerful undercut moves and compression climbing . I managed to redpoint this first part on friday, and tried to finish up fabelita but fell shortly pumped out of my mind! This initial attempt gave me huge motivation for the whole route but also the realisation that i need to work on the resistance for the latter part so....
the next day i rocked up to the cave after work and gave fabelita 8c a "training go" to remember the moves and try to repeat it for the fitness , to my suprise i did it!

Sunday I woke up feeling pretty knacked but i expected this as it was the best two days climbing i'd had for a long time. Well we got to the crag and it was super cold we waited around for the sun to finally appear and I gave the whole thing a go amuerte!! After two days climbing i wasnt expecting much , maybe the best way to feel when redpointing, off i set with seemingly numb hands hitting them and blowing on them through the low sequence of the direct start , i managed to climb through the tricky technical traverse section of fabelita and set off through the top crux section, It was going well but at the end i hesitated to clip a clip that i didnt need to for no reason, anyway halfway through struggling to clip it i decided just to push on, but this slight hestitation, drift in mental focus meant i didnt have enough for the very last hard move and i came plummeting down, oh well another 9a another last move ITS ALL TRAINING, ISNT IT??????

So with the three hardest days climbing i have ever had, under my belt, my motivation and psyche is at an all time high even the forecast of 12 days rain can not curb my psyche!!

The Next Decade of Climbing!!! Venga Vichos!!!

2010-01-03T08:16:00.001-08:00

....Ok, so.... ive not been very good with keeping the blog upto date but im going to try a bit harder and make time which is not so easy when im working and going climbing and dont have internet but motivated to make an effort this decade! :)

Before christmas I was climbing a lot in Santa Linya. I was really motivated for a route called Fuck the System, a long 9A that is the extension to the classic 8C Digital System. I tried it quite a lot and fell off the last move!! Im pretty psyched to get this route done as soon as the cave dries up. Alan also managed to do his project in the cave, an 8C called Favelita before he headed back to Scotland for Christmas. Lynne was also pleased to do Devora Hombres, the short and powerful 7C+ in the back of the cave.

La Primera Nueve A!!!!!!!

2009-10-04T12:06:00.000-07:00

Today I did my first 9A Guilty Perpetua (FA), which is a link-up in the 'Old Skool' Disblia cave. It links Guilty, a hard 3 bolt 8b+ (font 8a at least) into the top of Cadena Perpetua. Cadena perpetua is a hard 8c that I have already done, the top section being 8b+ in its own right. I dont really like breaking down the route into graded sections because when comparing them to other routes there are so many varients to be considered i.e. the size of rests etc. Regardless, this is my hardest route to date and the most direct line through this awesome cave and im really psyched for people to come and try it and give their opinions.

Life on the Farm

2009-09-28T02:21:00.001-07:00

Its been a long hot relaxing summer in Catalonia, sleeping, doing the garden, sleeping, eating, sleeping, its definately nothing like a British summer. We went on a bit of a trip to France for a week but decided to head back to Spain as we wanted to stay at home and not in the van (weak I know). We were also quite motivated to begin our mini farm....chickens, rabbits, fruit, vegetables, nuts etc, fresh eggs every day are definately good for recovery.

We have spent the last month climbing lots, taking advantage of the slightly cooler weather. Ive been trying Les Inconformistes again and im really enjoying that. Ive not tried it in the last couple of weeks due to a finger slicing incident but am keen to get back on it tomorrow. Since we started back work a couple of weeks ago we have also been going to Margalef and Disblia, not so easy to go to Rodellar and be at work for 4.30!!! At Disblia I managed to do a really short 8b+ called Guilty, super bouldery with the crux over only a few bolts. I then surprised myself by doing an 8C link up of an 8a+ into the route Perpetua, only just managing to clip the chains!! At Margalef ive had a few goes on an 8C there called L'espiadimonis. Ive never really climbed on pockets before, a different style to what im used to but im definately psyched to spend a bit of time there over the next few months.

Alan Cassidy is also out living with us now. He is definately motivated, wanting to do every route in Catalonia! A couple of weeks ago he managed to do Pata Negra, 8C in Rodellar achieving his lifetime climbing goal. (check out his blog)

Rodellar and beasted lats!!!

2009-06-24T05:07:00.000-07:00

With temps of 37 degrees the last couple of weeks have not been easy but seeking the shade in Rodellar, climbing early and cooler temps of 32, the last week has been good. I tried Les Inconformistes a 9a at Las Ventanas. Its an amazing route that is slightly intimidating due to its strange angle, completamente differente!!!!!!! Alan Cassidy has also been out for the weekend. We took him to Disblia and he warmed up on a 7c OS and then just before dark OS the classic 8A of the crag. He was keen for Rodellar and he did Made in Mascun 7c+, El Delfin 7c+, Mal de Amores 8A+ 2nd go just missing the OS. Lynne tried Made in Mascun and is hoping to do it before her summer jolly.

A good week

2009-05-28T06:02:00.000-07:00

Went to Diablia yesterday and tried a new route there. It links Guilty 8b+ into Cadena Perpetua. The route is fantastic but now im absolutely destroyed, everything aches.

Also yesterday, after some impressive power-squeals Lynne managed to do her first 7c+, after almost dropping it at the chain.

We are both quite motivated at the moment as we only have 5 weeks of work left. We are planning on climbing in France, Spain and Austria for a couple of months. Im pretty psyched to check out Gorge Du Loup, Zillertal, Rodellar, as many as I can!!!!

2009-05-26T02:06:00.000-07:00

Its been a busy few weeks since the last blog, work, climbing and the new pooch Dillan. As St Linya is still closed I have been climbing at Disblia, a sector with many old, hard, classic routes and an old training ground for Spanish WADS. This week I managed to do Cadena Perpetua, 8C. Psyched to do it, as it has only had a couple of other ascents. Pete O'Donovan has also been out a couple of days with us taking pictures and keeping the dogs under control!!! Thanks for the pics.

Saturday was the first visit of the year to Rodellar. We went with Pete, Angels and met up with Dani and Andrea. Its such a cool place with endless amounts of amazing routes. I watched Dani try a new project at Ventanas next to Los Borrachos, totally insane!!! Psyched to get back there, probably this weekend because Lynne doesnt want to go anywhere else!!!

Better Weather finally!

2009-05-02T12:00:00.000-07:00

Its been a busy couple of weeks with miserable weather but finally things are on the up. Managing to get out in the good weather, whilst moving house. Disblia has been a good crag before work and I managed to do a really good 8c there called Cadena Muerte and am now trying another whilst waiting for the cave at Terradets to dry.

We are now living in Vilanova De La Sal, less than 10 minutes from St Linya and am motivated for mid-May when it is open again.

First Blog

2009-04-07T09:24:00.000-07:00

My first blog and im sitting in a cafe, in the rain - nothing new. Thankfully my friends are here from Scotland so no shortage of bad chat. Had a good day yesterday at Terradets before the rain. I tried La Leccion 8, it was really good but a bit wet still. The others managed to OS numerous routes, Ally his first 7b and Neil denied at the top of the classic 7c, Occident, all in all a good first day for them. The forecast is better for tomorrow so hopefully we can get climbing.

2009-02-16T12:51:00.002-08:00

2009-02-16T12:47:00.000-08:00