La Primera Nueve A!!!!!!!

Today I did my first 9A Guilty Perpetua (FA), which is a link-up in the 'Old Skool' Disblia cave. It links Guilty, a hard 3 bolt 8b+ (font 8a at least) into the top of Cadena Perpetua. Cadena perpetua is a hard 8c that I have already done, the top section being 8b+ in its own right. I dont really like breaking down the route into graded sections because when comparing them to other routes there are so many varients to be considered i.e. the size of rests etc. Regardless, this is my hardest route to date and the most direct line through this awesome cave and im really psyched for people to come and try it and give their opinions.

Life on the Farm

Its been a long hot relaxing summer in Catalonia, sleeping, doing the garden, sleeping, eating, sleeping, its definately nothing like a British summer. We went on a bit of a trip to France for a week but decided to head back to Spain as we wanted to stay at home and not in the van (weak I know). We were also quite motivated to begin our mini farm....chickens, rabbits, fruit, vegetables, nuts etc, fresh eggs every day are definately good for recovery.

We have spent the last month climbing lots, taking advantage of the slightly cooler weather. Ive been trying Les Inconformistes again and im really enjoying that. Ive not tried it in the last couple of weeks due to a finger slicing incident but am keen to get back on it tomorrow. Since we started back work a couple of weeks ago we have also been going to Margalef and Disblia, not so easy to go to Rodellar and be at work for 4.30!!! At Disblia I managed to do a really short 8b+ called Guilty, super bouldery with the crux over only a few bolts. I then surprised myself by doing an 8C link up of an 8a+ into the route Perpetua, only just managing to clip the chains!! At Margalef ive had a few goes on an 8C there called L'espiadimonis. Ive never really climbed on pockets before, a different style to what im used to but im definately psyched to spend a bit of time there over the next few months.

Alan Cassidy is also out living with us now. He is definately motivated, wanting to do every route in Catalonia! A couple of weeks ago he managed to do Pata Negra, 8C in Rodellar achieving his lifetime climbing goal. (check out his blog)

Rodellar and beasted lats!!!

With temps of 37 degrees the last couple of weeks have not been easy but seeking the shade in Rodellar, climbing early and cooler temps of 32, the last week has been good. I tried Les Inconformistes a 9a at Las Ventanas. Its an amazing route that is slightly intimidating due to its strange angle, completamente differente!!!!!!! Alan Cassidy has also been out for the weekend. We took him to Disblia and he warmed up on a 7c OS and then just before dark OS the classic 8A of the crag. He was keen for Rodellar and he did Made in Mascun 7c+, El Delfin 7c+, Mal de Amores 8A+ 2nd go just missing the OS. Lynne tried Made in Mascun and is hoping to do it before her summer jolly.

A good week

Went to Diablia yesterday and tried a new route there. It links Guilty 8b+ into Cadena Perpetua. The route is fantastic but now im absolutely destroyed, everything aches.

Also yesterday, after some impressive power-squeals Lynne managed to do her first 7c+, after almost dropping it at the chain.

We are both quite motivated at the moment as we only have 5 weeks of work left. We are planning on climbing in France, Spain and Austria for a couple of months. Im pretty psyched to check out Gorge Du Loup, Zillertal, Rodellar, as many as I can!!!!

Its been a busy few weeks since the last blog, work, climbing and the new pooch Dillan. As St Linya is still closed I have been climbing at Disblia, a sector with many old, hard, classic routes and an old training ground for Spanish WADS. This week I managed to do Cadena Perpetua, 8C. Psyched to do it, as it has only had a couple of other ascents. Pete O'Donovan has also been out a couple of days with us taking pictures and keeping the dogs under control!!! Thanks for the pics.

Saturday was the first visit of the year to Rodellar. We went with Pete, Angels and met up with Dani and Andrea. Its such a cool place with endless amounts of amazing routes. I watched Dani try a new project at Ventanas next to Los Borrachos, totally insane!!! Psyched to get back there, probably this weekend because Lynne doesnt want to go anywhere else!!!

Better Weather finally!

Its been a busy couple of weeks with miserable weather but finally things are on the up. Managing to get out in the good weather, whilst moving house. Disblia has been a good crag before work and I managed to do a really good 8c there called Cadena Muerte and am now trying another whilst waiting for the cave at Terradets to dry.

We are now living in Vilanova De La Sal, less than 10 minutes from St Linya and am motivated for mid-May when it is open again.

First Blog

My first blog and im sitting in a cafe, in the rain - nothing new. Thankfully my friends are here from Scotland so no shortage of bad chat. Had a good day yesterday at Terradets before the rain. I tried La Leccion 8, it was really good but a bit wet still. The others managed to OS numerous routes, Ally his first 7b and Neil denied at the top of the classic 7c, Occident, all in all a good first day for them. The forecast is better for tomorrow so hopefully we can get climbing.