Feb 26, 2010

What a Crazy day!!!!!!

Well, I still can't quite believe it, today i did my second 9a, Fuck the System.

Tired from wednesday we arrived at the crag late today as we had to do an english course, so i warmed up slowly on airline and then bouldered around, i hadn't been on fuck the system for more or less two months due to all the rain and seeping tufas, anyway i pulled on and climbed through the crux of digital smoothly, arriving at the rest before the crux sequences i felt calm and focused pulling through the moves i made one or two mistakes hesitating on the top headwall and completely forgetting to replace the crucial toe hook, pumping out i plumetted back down with memeories of previous failed attempts. I bounced back up the rope and worked the moves to remember the top sequence,.
Sitting around at the bottom after, again I thought it was time to call it a day, the sun was fading it was getting cold but i dont know i just psyched myself up once again thinking if you want to get something done you've got to try fucking hard!! At the last move i felt nervous as it it is a large dynamic move and i had already fallen here two months ago. I slapped a numbing hand on my hand and went AMUERTE hitting the final hold perfectly ,letting out a roar as i clipped the chain it seemed like the dream ending to an already perfect week!!!!!!!

Thanks to lynne again for many days in the cold belaying and thanks to Pete for coming out in the cold to get the photos.

Feb 24, 2010

Its purrrrrfect!!!!!

Direct Fabelita 9a , my very own link up at the cave!!!!!!!

Soo psyched, after falling on the last move the other weekend and then a week of crappy weather i thought it was going to be another 9a which i have fallen off the last move and not done!!!
Well, it didn´t start all that amazing today, we went down to the crag not expecting much after a storm yesterday and torrential downpour , to find the crag more or less dry. The sun was out and a strong wind was whipping round the cave making it feel crisp and cool. After 3 miserable attempts falling at the same spot, a really bouldery sequence, in the lower part and time to go to work approaching, i was ready to call it a day. However a japanese friend of mine whose name i cannot begin to spell gave an amazing display managing to do his first 8c+, today is his last day in spain after a long trip and he was super psyched, this Psyched me up to give it that one last "TRAINING GO" and that was it, somehow even though i felt tired before i started it was just one of those attempts when everything feels right !!!!

Now I need to get back to some unfinished bussiness ie Fuck the System ( when its dry that is).

Thanks to Lynne for going to the cave All the time!! Thanks to Alan too for the superb victory belay!!!!

Feb 16, 2010

Ok , well somehow fuck the system is still wet. Annoying. Anyway i started trying another 9a proj a week or so ago and am well psyched for it, the route itself is a link up of the direct start to open your mind with fabelita.
The start section weighing in at 8c+ in its own right and six bolts long, it seemed like a project in its own right so this is were i initially focused. The first part is a combination of powerful undercut moves and compression climbing . I managed to redpoint this first part on friday, and tried to finish up fabelita but fell shortly pumped out of my mind! This initial attempt gave me huge motivation for the whole route but also the realisation that i need to work on the resistance for the latter part so....
the next day i rocked up to the cave after work and gave fabelita 8c a "training go" to remember the moves and try to repeat it for the fitness , to my suprise i did it!

Sunday I woke up feeling pretty knacked but i expected this as it was the best two days climbing i'd had for a long time. Well we got to the crag and it was super cold we waited around for the sun to finally appear and I gave the whole thing a go amuerte!! After two days climbing i wasnt expecting much , maybe the best way to feel when redpointing, off i set with seemingly numb hands hitting them and blowing on them through the low sequence of the direct start , i managed to climb through the tricky technical traverse section of fabelita and set off through the top crux section, It was going well but at the end i hesitated to clip a clip that i didnt need to for no reason, anyway halfway through struggling to clip it i decided just to push on, but this slight hestitation, drift in mental focus meant i didnt have enough for the very last hard move and i came plummeting down, oh well another 9a another last move ITS ALL TRAINING, ISNT IT??????

So with the three hardest days climbing i have ever had, under my belt, my motivation and psyche is at an all time high even the forecast of 12 days rain can not curb my psyche!!