Santa Linya Desploma't Climbing Event

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Valdegobia, Spanish Malham.

The 7a+ at apellaniz that was a misprint in the guide actually 7c, thank the lord!

At first I thought these stone carvings were just for feeding the cows, only later did I find out that they were actually tombs!!!! Didn't get back in one after that.

These tombs are everywhere at valdegobia at the bases of many routes, there is even one carved into the crag about 10 feet off the ground!

First and only day at baltzola= rain, forced rest day.

About 300,000 euros worth of vans in the car park! I thought climbers were poor?!

Spanish Malham, Valdegobia.

Back from a quick trip to Germany, where I was at the enormous tradeshow with EDELRID. It was a really good experience, great to see the innovative new kit that those guys are producing and really appreciative of their support.

So we,ve had 2 days climbing at Valdegobia, this is a crag which is to my knowledge not well known in the uk or outside of Spain for that matter. However, I think that the brits out there would love this crag, suprisingly cool temps, crimps, pockets and tiny little footholds. It's set within a green meadow. Not suprisingly it is super popular for Spanish climbing families. So much so that the locals have nicknamed the main sector as "the playground". Some of the sectors are featured in the basque climbing guide but not all, there are loads of sectors with one more hidden quiet sector that is covered in amazing tufas!

The only downside to the area is that at the weekend it is realllllly busy, kids and dogs and cows out number the climbers ten to one. For me personally I don't like climbing when it is so busy, the atmosphere there wasn't the usual chilled, friendly spanish way that I have come to know and love. Oh well, all that said I did do some really cool routes,made some silly mistakes( not taking enough draws) and having to jump off the onsight of the 8b+ not knowing whether to laugh or cry, pleased to do the 8c yesterday, it's the quickest I've ever done one.

Today back to Apellaniz, and proj time for Lynne, venga amuerte!!!!!

Travelling amuerte with Mavis!

What a crazy week or so, returning to Scotland, buying a campervan (Mavis), catching up with family and friends, travelling south again on the karaoke ferry extrordinaire to Santander, to very, very slowly cross the Cantabrian mountains (bad map use) back to the inferno of Lleida, swimming, drinking, organising the Spanish dole and now Basque Climbing WOOHOO!!!!!!!

The first crag we have come to is Apellaniz, a small seemingly locals crag which is beautifully set in a lush Basque forest. Climbing here is a little surreal as you climb to an orchestra of cow bells worn by the huge cream cows that mow the grass at the base of the crag, making it seem as though it has its own private gardener.

Arriving to the crag without any guide or anything, we were warmly welcomed by the locals who gave us a guided tour of the crag. There are about 60 routes spread over three main buttresses. In general the climbing is short, bouldery and explosive on pockets and edges. The middle buttress is longer and has a more British limestone feel, white and blue with delicate climbing on slopers and undercuts.

Im so psyched to get back climbing, its been a while.

First day at the crag I did a classic 8a os, La Txunga del Txi and another 8a La Txunga del Gotzon 2nd go. Yesterday we returned to Apellaniz, warmed up on a couple of brutal 4 bolt 6's and Lynne did a 6b+ with a full on move off a mono!! I then go so spanked on a 7a+ that I had to check the guide to see if I was on the right route, as I knew that there was an 8b next to it. Unfortunately, I was on the right route!! With Lynne chuckling I wondered if it would go next red point, joder! Luckily, I shook my way up it feeling scared on the first pad mono undercut and smeary feet. Now I know why the Basques are so strong. Anyway, a couple of biscuits later I finished off the day by onsighting a really great 8a on the Garrapatta wall. Grades, what an odd concept sometimes.

We are resting today and tomorrow we are going to check out Valdegobia.