September was rematch time for Sam Williams and I on our multipitch project "Icarus", we headed out with 2 weeks to try and finish off what we had previuosly started.
We had a fortnight and we thought we would have loads of time to get the route done. At the start we had everything going our way, on picking up the hire car Sam got a free upgrade to a beastly estate car that we could fit a massive Edelrid bouldering pad in and so there was our accomodation sorted!! We stormed off to the uber crag psyched to see what the upper reaches of Icarus had to offer.
Day 1: we got back on the first pitch thinking we would romp through it and get on with working the second pitch, however I pulled on squirmed my way upto the crux into the mega run out and then greased off in the out of season hot temps and basically circumcised my thumb and took a massive whipper only to land on a bolt head with my heel :( My nerves shaken, my thumb pissing blood this was not the positive start I had been hoping for!!! The day sadly to say went miserably with us only managing to make it to the base of the second pitch.
Thankfully things picked up after a slow start, my bruised heel and the hot temps meant we left working the second pitch for a few days and headed off to develop the higher pitches.
At this point we had the first 3 pitches equipped at estimate grades of 7b+, 8b, 6c+,
Pitch 4: The first of the upper pitches will weigh in around 7b and has some great climbing with a real mix of holds from monos to water runnel side pulls, it leads about 25m up the wall to an obvious belay ledge.
Pitch 5: This pitch will prob be about 7b+ and features the same great and varied climbing of the previos pitch and is slightly longer at 30m to another obvious belay ledge.
Pitch 6: 4+ here you have to traverse round to the base of the "V wall" pitch, a stunningly immaculate vertical wall of blue water worn limestone.
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| Storm rolling in while we were at the base of "V wall" pitch. |
Pitch 7: The "V wall" pitch, this is the pitch which took us longest to equip and the pitch that we had the most time playing on. The friction climbing on this wall is of superb quality an inspiring wall with just enough holds to make it possible and "the cherry on top" of our very own multipitch route. I estimate the grade to be around 8b, we tried it in pretty hot conditions so it will be good to try it in the cold and see how it feels.
En fin: We were incredibly naive in thinking that we would smash out a brand new multipitch ground up in 5 days!!! In total we have spent nearly 3 weeks and it's still not finished. But in no way do I regret it, undoubtedly it has been the biggest and best climbing adventure I have had. I cant wait to get back up there!
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| Tired me at the top of the route!! Psyched to get back and send all the pitches in a oner!!! |
October! Time to increase the day fitness get on some hard projects (9a+s) and get out climbing loads!!!!
