Feb 16, 2010

Ok , well somehow fuck the system is still wet. Annoying. Anyway i started trying another 9a proj a week or so ago and am well psyched for it, the route itself is a link up of the direct start to open your mind with fabelita.
The start section weighing in at 8c+ in its own right and six bolts long, it seemed like a project in its own right so this is were i initially focused. The first part is a combination of powerful undercut moves and compression climbing . I managed to redpoint this first part on friday, and tried to finish up fabelita but fell shortly pumped out of my mind! This initial attempt gave me huge motivation for the whole route but also the realisation that i need to work on the resistance for the latter part so....
the next day i rocked up to the cave after work and gave fabelita 8c a "training go" to remember the moves and try to repeat it for the fitness , to my suprise i did it!

Sunday I woke up feeling pretty knacked but i expected this as it was the best two days climbing i'd had for a long time. Well we got to the crag and it was super cold we waited around for the sun to finally appear and I gave the whole thing a go amuerte!! After two days climbing i wasnt expecting much , maybe the best way to feel when redpointing, off i set with seemingly numb hands hitting them and blowing on them through the low sequence of the direct start , i managed to climb through the tricky technical traverse section of fabelita and set off through the top crux section, It was going well but at the end i hesitated to clip a clip that i didnt need to for no reason, anyway halfway through struggling to clip it i decided just to push on, but this slight hestitation, drift in mental focus meant i didnt have enough for the very last hard move and i came plummeting down, oh well another 9a another last move ITS ALL TRAINING, ISNT IT??????

So with the three hardest days climbing i have ever had, under my belt, my motivation and psyche is at an all time high even the forecast of 12 days rain can not curb my psyche!!

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